It is those last things you want to avoid. THEN on the modern ones there come the Voltage Regulator systems that adjust the actual voltage applied to the battery to charge it rapidly when it needs that, and to keep only a small trickle charge current going when it is fully charged. So overall the entire unit is designed for all those factors. Then realize that the car battery really is NOT 12 Volt - it usually reads about 13.2 V with no load on it. All of those BASIC items cause a small loss of voltage. Some MAY have a small inductor as part of the ripple filter system, but car batteries are not really fussy about that. AFTER the battery there is a rectifier system - often a bridge of 4 diodes in a heatsink - to convert to DC with significant ripple, then at least one capacitor to damp out some of that ripple. BUT it does not supply exactly 12 VAC either. Do NOT just hook the transformer output to your battery!! A transformer only works on AC, and it is there just to convert the household 120 VAC into a battery's 12 VAC.
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